Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Day 07

Randy was usually the first one out to surf. Mid afternoon at Lance's.

Bear took our cook Harley out in the speedboat to shoot a few photos and I took their photo.

I definitely didn't want to get washed over that reef.


Just another sunset in the Mentawais
I don't know what to say about day seven other than it was another day in paradise. We set up for the day at Lance's Left - an awesome lefthander that broke across a shallow reef. There was only one other boat there when we pulled up, but they left shortly after to go over and surf Lance's Right. The swell was starting to fill back in, and we had consistent shoulder to head high waves with a few larger ones during the course of the day. The guys surfing backside were freaking out a little because they would watch the wave suck the water off the reef right in front of them. It didn't bother me much cause I made all my waves. I actually thought it was pretty cool. Nice easy take off, get a turn or two off, then the inside would pop up in front of you and you could ride it for a while farther. The only thing that distracted me was the water was so damn clear I could see fish swimming around in front of me while I was surfing.
After lunch I set up my 600mm lens from the boat. The entire time so far I had shot from the speedboat and thought it might be easier to shoot from the Navi. It wasn't rocking too bad and I thought I might be able to get a few good shots with a reasonably straight horizon. I did get a few and it was relaxing having everything available to me - even people to go get me drinks or food and especially shade. I will admit, I was really freaking excited that night when I heard we were going to surf Macaronis tomorrow. It is definitely the best wave in the island chain which could make it the best in the world (for me anyway?).

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